Perfume Bottles and Collectables 

• Ancient Perfume Containers

• Venetian/Murano Glass Bottles

• Middle Ages: Scented Gloves, Pomanders

• 17th to 18th Century; Vinaigrettes; Smelling Bottles

• 18th, 19th and 20th Century Perfume Containers as a Form of Art

Ancient Perfume Containers:
Clay jugs, glass bottles and hollowed out precious stones

Ancient writings found in Persia, Iraq (Mesopotamia) Cyprus, Egypt, Israel and Rome mention the perfume industries that once thrived in those locations. In each of these places one can still find remains of these ancient industries, together with the remnants of the containers that were used to hold the perfume.

Ancient Roman Glass Bottles - Courtesy of Israel Antiquity Authorities

In Cyprus you can view exhibits of clay jugs that were used to make and store perfume. In Egypt you can also find clay pots that were often designed to look like people or animals (sometimes only a few inches in length), as well as containers made of stone and alabaster.  The latter substances were chosen since they were not porous and would not leak, and also because they helped to keep the perfume cool. Perfume was an important part of the ancient Egyptian burial practices, and as a result various different perfume containers have been found in unearthed tombs.
	Artifact provided by Tarshish-Tzadok  Antiquities

Ancient Persian Bottles - Photo courtesy of Israel Antiquity Authorities

According to the Roman historian Pliny, the first discovery of glass was made accidentally on the Phoenician coast by a group of sailors, possibly near the city that is known today as Acre. 

The sailors apparently started a fire on the beach in order to prepare food. They were transporting a cargo of ‘natrum’, (subcarbonate of soda). They decided to use some of their cargo to support their cooking utensils and, with the heat of the fire, the blocks of natrum began to melt and combine with the sand of the beach - forming a rudimentary type of glass. 

Some, however, would argue that in fact glass was already being produced by the Egyptians before this time.

Various glass making techniques were practiced by the ancient Egyptians, Phoenicians and Romans, including a technique called “core-formatting”. With this technique, the body of the vial was formed on a core which resulted in long and slender shapes, sometimes only a few inches in length.
Ancient Roman Perfume Bottles - Artifacts from Tarshish-Tzadok Antiquities

Another method that the Phoenicians used was very similar to the modern glass making technique, involving a melting-pot (requiring extreme heat) and a blowpipe. 

The glass blower was required to blow into the pipe until the glass expanded at its lower end and gradually took on a pear-shaped form. 

When the glass was partially cooled and hardened, but still had some softness and pliability, it was detached from the pipe and modeled with pincers or by hand into a shape. The final stage was to polish and sometimes cut the glass by means of a turning-lathe.

Ancient Roman Perfume Containers - Artifacts from Tarshish-Tzadok Antiquities

Famous Venetian/Murano Glass Bottles

Since there was constant trade between the Phoenician/Middle Eastern coastline and the other side of the Mediterranean, it is no wonder that a glass industry was already well established near Venice as early as the 7th century. 

Some have argued that the glass industry of Venice did not emerge as a result of the Mesopotamian, Phoenician and Roman influence, but developed independently. However it is very likely that the earlier industries did play an important role, if not directly then as a result of the influence of Byzantine craftsmen who arrived in Venice after the fall of Constantinople.

In 1291 the glass furnaces of Venice were moved to the neighboring island of Murano, and to this day Murano is known throughout the world for its unique glass work. The magnificent glass of the Murano industries developed in close relation to perfume industries that flourished, during the Renaissance, in both Venice and Florence.

Venice, as a great port, was affected by many cultures throughout the years. One can see the influence of Islam in some of the perfume containers that have been found from the early period of Venetian glassmaking.  For example there were glass beads, called ‘Perfume Pearls’, that were pierced with small holes for the purpose of holding scented substance, and rosewater sprinklers which were designed in the Islamic style.

Moroccan Perfume Bottle - Period Unknown

Modern Venetian Glass

From the Middle Ages:
Scented Gloves; Pomanders

Eventually the use of perfume spread from Venice and Florence throughout Europe.  During this period, perfume was often placed on or in objects other than bottles, vials or jugs. For example, around the 16th century, it was a common practice to add perfume to gloves in order to cover the strong smell of the leather.   Also at this time, starch powder or tinted, scented flour was used to embellish hairstyles.

Pomanders (from the French pomme d'ambre, or apple of ambergris) were used as early as the Middle Ages (spanning the 5th century through to 15th century) and were worn to ward off evil spirits, disease and infection, as well as for combating unpleasant odors. These were often small filigree or perforated balls or boxes of precious metal, filled with spices or other solid fragrant substances, and were worn around the neck or attached to the waist.

One can still find examples of small jeweled boxes designed for a similar purpose, crafted by Yemenite Jewish jewelers, known as masters of a unique style of silverwork which is considered one of the oldest filigree styles in the world. 

 Late 18th or early 19th century Yemenite jewelry of pomander-style design

Authentic silver Jewish Yemenite necklace used to hold solid aromatic material or scrolls

For generations Yemenite filigree knowledge, centered in the capital city of Sana, was passed from father to sons to grandsons. Today there are only a few Yemenite Jews left who can still claim expertise in this special craft.

This Jewish tradition also includes the use of ornately designed spice or perfume boxes which were --and still are today-- filled with aromatic spices and placed on the Sabbath table for use in the Havdalah ceremony. These were usually designed in silver in the form of peaked or domed towers (often reminiscent of medieval towers) depending on the architectural influence of the culture that the Jews found themselves in. 

Jewish Yemenite Shabbat Perfume/Spice Holders - Designed & Crafted by Shalom Saadia

These ‘Shabbat perfume boxes’, filled with cloves and other fragrant spices, symbolize and celebrate the “Perfume of the Sabbath” and have been part of the Jewish tradition for hundreds of years.

Spice and Perfume Holders used for the Sabbath Havdala ceremony - Designed and Crafted by Shalom Saadia

17th to 18th Century:
Vinaigrettes; Smelling Bottles

Europe’s aristocracies and monarchies, during the 17th and 18th centuries, valued perfume not only as an accessory but often as a necessity. 

Refined societies in Europe considered perfume to be an essential part of life, in response to the extremely foul odors which seem to have permeated day to day existence at the time. By the late 17th century the center of the perfume industry had firmly established itself in France, and with it the various related industries that produced different types of containers for aromatic materials. During the 18th century the use of solid perfume (associated with the pomanders of earlier times) gave way to liquid perfume, usually with a base of alcohol or vinegar.

Mme de Pompadour by Francois Boucher of the Rococo age, 1759

As fashion and ideas changed, high society began to favor delicately scented waters composed of floral bouquets over stronger smelling perfume substances. As a result, ladies were advised to carry perfume in flasks in order not to inflict strong odors on those who found them imposing.

The liquid perfume was usually kept in small decorated flasks or in “vinaigrettes” which were carried in inconspicuous places such as a muff or purse. Vinaigrettes were small boxes of various shapes, usually rectangular and attached to a chain. Inside, they were built with a screen in gilded metal (to prevent erosion from the acids) around a hinge, and they sometimes contained a tiny piece of Turkish sponge drenched with aromatic vinegar.

Later, smelling bottles became popular, often made of cut-glass filled with smelling salts or a sponge soaked in aromatic vinegars. At the time it was a common practice to revive a woman who had suffered from a fainting spell by rubbing her forehead with a piece of vinegar-soaked cotton or encouraging her to breathe in the odors of a smelling bottle. 

At a certain point perfume flasks began to reflect distinct schools of design and appeared as legitimate art objects in their own right.

Some of the earlier artistic containers included Rococo designs – a unique baroque style of 17^th to 18^th century French art which was known for its asymmetry of ornaments, usually including flowers, leaves, shells, scrolls etc. This style, often associated with Marie Antoinette, was usually made of milk glass and painted with enamels.

Antique French Rococo gilt porcelain perfume-bottles, courtesy of http://www.malleries.com

18th , 19th and 20th Century Perfume Containers as a Form of Art 

The 18th and 19th centuries included many different types of perfume bottles such as those of cut glass, silver overlay on glass, porcelain, crystal etc.  

Larger bottles were designed to be placed on dressing tables to hold toilet water or Eau de Cologne -- a fruity based alcohol solution that was developed in Cologne, Germany, at the beginning of the 18th century and which became very popular throughout Europe. 

Smaller containers of various designs were carried in handbags or worn on chains.  Ladies were often seen wearing small flasks on chains that were designed with screw tops that enabled them to apply the perfume on need.    

In the 19th century one could find bottles made of many different types of material, including a special type of crystal, referred to as Opaline. The crystal used for these bottles was colored by adding tin oxide and calcified bone which gave the bottles a milky quality reminiscent of opal.  

Perfume bottle with atomizer - flea market	Bohemian Perfume Bottle
British Perfume Bottle	Perfume bottle with atomizer - flea market

The fashionable perfume bottles of the 18th century up until the early 19th century were for the most part elegant, catering only to the wealthiest in society. Then suddenly, in the middle of the 19th Century, the industrial revolution changed life forever. 

Synthetic perfume became popular and manufacturers began to produce perfume flasks on mass, thus lowering the price of bottled perfume and enabling all types of people, not just high society, to indulge in what used to be a luxury.  

This period saw the emergence of famous perfume manufacturers such as Gelle Frères, Guerlain, Lubin, Millot, Rigaud, Roger & Gallet, Ed. Pinaud, L.T. Piver, etc. Interestingly, after the industrial revolution one finds examples of standard somewhat simple mass produced containers which had, in contrast, complex and intricately designed labels. 

Then, at the end of the 19th century, as a reaction to the mass production and banality that followed the industrial revolution, the unique Art Nouveau design style emerged, originally in France. The name “Art Nouveau” refers to a Parisian gallery for interior decoration, called “La Maison de l”Art Nouveau”, which opened in 1896. 

Art Nouveau was inspired by the observation of nature. It often included distinct Japanese nuances, and was known to emphasize the cult of woman whose sensuality and smooth curves were considered to reflect perfect harmony. 

Art Nouveau Austrian Art Glass Perfume Bottles Essence de Daver courtesy of http://www.malleries.com

In 1900, at the Paris World Fair which celebrated the turn of the century, there was a special exhibit that changed the direction of perfume fashion. Hervé Guimard designed a glass flask for the perfumer Millot, marking the beginning of collaboration between a designer and a perfumer.  After this, in 1907, there was the union of Francois Coty and the glassmaker René Lalique, resulting in Ambre Antique. 

After the First World War, trends were strongly influenced by the lifestyle changes of the roaring twenties and the emergence of the newly liberated woman. The 1920’s was associated, in particular, with a general desire to break with traditions – to be ‘modern’.  

During this time Art Deco emerged as a forceful design style. While it was influenced by many different art movements of the early 20^th century, Art Deco is usually associated with the geometric forms influenced by Cubism and one can see the influence of this design style among the perfume bottles of the time.

Of course this period also saw the emergence of many perfumes which are still considered classics of today, such as the famous Chanel No.5 – known for the absolute simplicity and elegance of its bottle - which is almost the same today as it was when it first appeared.  Some of the favorite perfumes of the 20th century are Chypre by Coty, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar and Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, Arpège by Lanvin, Coeur Joie and L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.
An interesting bottle that is worth noting was designed by the surrealist painter Salvador Dali for Le Roy Soleil perfume by Elsa Schiaparelli.
Salvador Dali Design	20th Century - Givenchy, Chloe, Oscar de la Rente

	And, while France definitely dominated the perfume industry of the past few centuries, there are now many famous brands that are produced across the world, from countries such as Britain, Japan, Germany, Switzerland, Israel, Spain, USA, and more.
Distinct bottle of female body, Jean Paul Gaultier design - from Tel Aviv flea market

An interesting development is the recent trend towards men’s perfume, offering iunique designs that are intended to attract the male audience. 

Since the history of perfume bottles reflects changes in lifestyle and design in such an interesting and dramatic way, it is not surprising that many bottles have become collectables and are sometimes worth thousands of dollars. 

People search through web sites and scour flee markets around the world looking for unusual and rare bottles. And just as the bottles of previous times are valuable for modern collectors, it is very probable that the more interesting bottles of our times will become collectables in fifty years from now.

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